December 30: Hue to Hoi An (Vietnam)

December  30

Another day on the move, but that is hardly new. But before leaving Hue, we did a group bike excursion to the outskirts of town, making a stop at a museum containing agricultural equipment traditionally used in Vietnam, a local market, and the Thanh Toan bridge. The ride took us along some delightful paths, at times beside rice fields being worked by some locals. What a contrast to the ride in Hanoi, no crazy traffic to contend with here.

Local home & attached pagoda

beside the canal along our bike route

Tur, our leader, demonstrating 

use of agricultural equipment

Local market-stop on our cycle route

Wonderful covered bridge beside market

At lunch we all loaded into yet another bus for the ride to Hoi An. The route took us through the mountains and down to the coast for a short stop at an incredible beach.  The views were breathtaking. We made one "siteseeing" stop, at the Marble Mountain, a cluster of 5 marble and limestone mountains named after the five elements: earth, fire, water, wood and metal. The climb up to the mountain gave us our exercise for the day, but it was well worth it: caves, buddhist sanctuaries, pagodas, and a monk who was chanting in the most haunting way. Truly inspiring.

And now we are in Hoi An, where we will stay for 3 nights!!! What bliss. It's quite a charming little touristy town, known for the made-to-order clothes and shoes that can be produced in no time. Our supper at one of the more upscale restaurants was excellent. The hotel here (Van Loi) is once again at the edge of the centre of town, so close but quiet. Actually got to unpack, and have laundry done.

It's going to be very hard to select just a few pictures for the day. I took many.

Our first (maybe only) beach

Cave on top of Marble Mountain

December 29: Hue (Vietnam)

December 29

We all made it through the night on the train and arrived in Hue (a much smaller city than Hanoi, about 350,000) about 8:45. To the hotel (Gold Hotel), a quick shower and breakfast, and off for a city tour. Sites we saw:
- Royal Citadel and the Forbidden Purple Palace, built by the Emperor Gia Long beginning in 1804 or so, another World Heritage Site. Unfortunately, many of the 160 buildings were destroyed in the Vietnam War. Such a shame! Add to that the damage from the very humid weather and it unfortunately looks rather the worse for wear.
- Tu Duc Tomb: this tomb (it's a huge complex really, not just a tomb) was built beginning in 1864 by Tu Duc, the last emperor to rule independently. He did not have any heirs as smallpox left him impotent.
- Thien Mu Pagoda: construction of this "heavenly lady" pagoda began in 1601. The pagoda has 7 tiers, each dedicated to a human form taken by Buddha.
Somehow, we fit in between these sites a boat trip along the Perfume River, and were served a fantastic lunch of great quantities of local food.

I ended the day with a discovery walk around Hue, delighted to be able to cross the street without fearing for my life. There is a nice walk along the river but it is otherwise not a particularly appealing city. That is likely why we move on to Hoi An tomorrow.

Entrance to Royal Citadel

Entrance to Tu Duc Tomb

Boat similar to our lunch boat

Thien Mu Pagoda

December 28: Hanoi to Hue

December 28

In the morning we had a quick tour of some of the highlights of Hanoi, including:
- Temple of Literature: I was expecting this to be a site filled with old books but in fact it was a complex built to honour Confucius, beginning in 1070, and houses Vietnam's first national university;
- Hoa Lo Prison,  built in the late 1800s by the French, it was used first to hold Vietnamese political prisoners and later POWs from the Vietnam War. The latter were badly abused and tortured but the exhibit suggested their situation was akin to a summer camp. Hum! John McCain was held there for many years. Hard to imagine coming out of a place like that emotionally intact. The exhibits were generally very well done and certainly gave a very graphic depiction of conditions for the Vietnamese political prisoners;
- Old quarter: we returned for a further wander about this part of the city, still a bit daunted by the traffic. The wander included the market and ended with a lunch of street food, a very generous bowl of pho. Excellent!

In the afternoon we rented bikes and drove to the outskirts of the city for a cycle around some quiet neighborhoods and a stop for tea and fruit at the home of a friend of the tour leader. I think we were all a bit overwhelmed by the short portion of the ride that took us through the streets of Hanoi. How people manage that chaos I don't know. After the ride we had just enough time to get our things together for our transport to the train station, and the overnight train to Hue. I was expecting the worst but in fact it was not so bad. Four berths (2 over 2) to a compartment but the bedding was clean and the toilet fine. Even so, it seemed I hardly slept.

Outside the Temple of Literature

Confucius in the Temple of Literature

Mural in Hoa London prison

Outside the market in the 

old quarter of Hanoi

December 27: Back to Hanoi

December 27

Great sleep on the little boat! Had breakfast about 8 and then toured around Halong Bay until about 10:30. The trip back to Hanoi meant 4 hours on the same route we had just taken the day before; by the end of that time I think we were all feeling stiff and cranky even though we made two stops along the way, one to see some garden plots being tended by a very hard-working woman and the second time at a factory that produced pottery in the old traditional way.

 Woman tending her garden beds

In the pottery factory

Once back in Hanoi a few of us went for lunch overlooking the lake at the edge of the old quarter, walked around the lake, and shopped a bit. By then it was time for another meal, once again in the old quarter. My goodness it is alive with people at night. Not that it's not in the daytime. This trip is one eating opportunity after another! Thank goodness Asian food is relatively healthy.

Oh, yes, I neglected to mention that entering Vietnam meant again adjusting to another currency, this time the Dong. There are about 20,000 (yes, that's right) to one US dollar. So even an inexpensive meal would be 100,000 Dong ($5.00)! As one person in the group suggested, why not just knock off the last three 0s!

View from our lunch spot of

 lake in Hanoi near our hotel

December 25-26: Vientiane (Laos) to Vietnam (Hanoi & Halong Bay)

December 25

Christmas day. It began in Laos and ended in Vietnam. This has to be as good as it gets.

The morning was free to wonder about Vientiane. The traffic there is mad, so I didn't wander far. The city is a strange mix of very old sacred sites next door to modern buildings. Caution is required when walking as in the middle of a sidewalk you might find a hole large enough to do yourself serious damage. Perhaps what most amazed me was the number of cars and motor bikes parked wherever. Often on the sidewalk, which made them rather useless for walking! And the power lines were a massive jumble of electrical wire. How could one ever determine what feeds what!

Before setting off for the airport we said goodbye to Nok, our leader through Thailand and Laos. She'd watched over us with great care, was well organized and also full of fun so we all hoped our next leader would be equally as good.

 Vientiane - this is parking?

 Vientiane - a wiring nightmare!

Vientiane, construction- see the bricks being lifted?

The flight to Hanoi took just 45 minutes so we were very soon meeting our next tour leader, Tur. We've clearly once again been lucky.

If I thought the traffic in Vientiane was mad I did not know what was in store for us in Hanoi, a city of about 7 million. Absolute chaos. If there are rules they are certainly not followed. No lights, just a mass of cars and motorbikes going any which way. And again, the sidewalks are just an extension of the road. We ventured cautiously onto these roads after checking into our hotel (Hong NGOC Dynasty, in the old quarter, a fabulous choice) and stuck close to Tur! A short walk around the old quarter took us to our supper spot, a restaurant serving local food. Once again good. The old quarter is alive with activity. I couldn't imagine finding my way through it on my own.

 Hanoi- old quarter at night

Hanoi- our hotel (Hong NGOC Dynasty)

December 26

No sitting still. By 8:15 we'd boarded our van (really comfortable) for Halong Bay, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sadly it was very overcast and cool and we were heading for an overnight boat ride. Oh well!

On the way through Hanoi we passed a funeral procession, walking along the road! Where else! Tur explained that funerals in Vietnam extend for 3 days. The ride took 4 hours and Tur spent most of it talking about the history and culture of Vietnam. He'd told us he'd be honest about both the good and bad, and he was just that. He is clearly well educated and influenced by the Western life style in addition to his own.

We stopped mid-way, at a factory/store set up to help people affected by Agent Orange. Incredible products but too little time to look around. And the place was packed.

And now I am on the boat which is anchored for the night in Halong Bay. We had lunch and supper on the boat, both extraordinary. Sculptured vegetables no less! The boat has only about 8 rooms and was recently renovated. Modern bathrooms, lots of wood accents, quiet lovely. The afternoon was spent touring Halong Bay and visiting one of the caves, called the Surprise Cave, likely because the size of the biggest chamber is just that. A huge space. The pictures below do a better job of showing you what it's like than my words ever could. Shame there was no sun.

 Our home for the night on Halong Bay

My room!

 Halong Bay, in the mist

 Surprise Cave

Part of our supper!

December 24: Vientiane (capital of LAOS)

December 24

We arrived in the capital of Laos, Vientiane, just before lunch, after a four hour drive from Veng Vieng. Never a dull minute!

A few observations along the way:
- gas here costs about $1.50 Canadian. Don't know how people afford it. Perhaps that explains why so many drive scooters, more often than not without helmets;
- wish I had more pictures of the homes people live in here. Such a range. I read that Laos is one of the 10 poorest countries in the world. The homes of the poorest have thatched walls and corregated metal roofs. Those with means are more likely to have homes made of brick covered in stucco, with roofs that give them the look of something you might see in Spain, or Mexico. That was surprisng to me.
- the exchange rate for the Kip (the currency in Laos) is about 8000 for one US dollar. A meal costing 60,000 kip seems like a small fortune, until you realize it is about $7.50!

Our 3 stops in Laos have been so different: Luang Prabang, the Unesco world heritage site, Veng Vieng, a small town only recently affected by tourism, and Vientiane, the capital. Quite a modern city. Relatively small (about 250,000) but very lively and full of tourists.

Before reaching the hotel we climbed the Patouxay Monument for a view of the city. Our hotel, the Sabaidee @Lao (sabaidee means hello), is very nice, and centrally located. The hotels have been very well selected. After lunch, we visited:
 - Wat (temple) Sisaket, built 1818-1824. The exterior walls have small niches containing thousands of buddhas;
- Haw Pra Keow, originally built around 1565, the former temple of the monarchy.
Both are now museums.  Laos is about 2/3 buddist.

Perhaps the highlight of the afternoon was a visit to COPE (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise). The mission of that organization is to help the many people who have lost limbs as a result of the unexploded bombs dropped on Laos during the 1960s and 70s. They have been devastating for the rural areas.

We had supper at an incredible restaurant, called the Makphet. It is run by Friends-International, an organization that gives street kids the skills to find employment. The dishes were so creative, and at the same time we were supporting a very worthwhile cause.

Tomorrow we leave Laos for Vietnam.

 Market on road to Vientiane

View from Patouxay Monument

Haw Phra Kaew

December 22-23: Vang Vieng (LAOS)

December 22

An early start to the day again as we were leaving Luang Prabang for Vang Vieng. This meant a 7 hour van ride, through the mountains. Spectacularly beautiful but more switchbacks and curves than I think I have ever encountered. Saw many overturned trucks along the way! Mid-morning we stopped in a Hmong village to watch a game of toss, a ritual mating game played around the Hmong new year. The girls were dressed in traditional costumes, which were absolutely beautiful.

We arrived in Vang Vieng about 4 and had some time to unpack before meeting up for supper. The food is sooo good. One particularly delicious traditional Laos dish is called Laap. Also lots of curries and fried noodle dishes, like pad thai. Their papaya salad is yummy, and quite spicy, as all their salads seem to be.

Our home in Vang Vieng is the hotel Silver Naga. Very pleasant. The town is a dusty little place that would have seen very few tourists even 10 years ago. Can't imagine what another 10 years will do to it.

View along our road trip

Game of toss at Hmong village

  View from my hotel room

December 23

Had the best breakfast yet, at our hotel. Totally unexpected in this little town. We then all went on a 25 minute walk to the Jung caves. At that point I realized why we had come to Veng Vieng. What a site. The picture below ilustrates that better than I could with words. Then, mid-morning, two of us went kayaking on the Nam Song river, with a guide. The river was a bit rough in spots but the trip was a real treat. The combination of gently (mostly anyway) flowing water and the mountain peaks was extraordinary.   

Free time to wonder in the afternoon. There has been just enough of that. Walked to another temple (Wat That) which was rather run down. There I spied a monk on his laptop. Rather an incongruous site. Happened upon a cyclist we had seen the day before on the road. A man from Holland. Can't belive anyone would cycle those mountain roads. He joined us for a drink and meal at the patio restaurant next to our hotel. Tomorrow morning we are off early for the capital of Laos, Vientiane.

Inside the Jung cave

 View from cave entrance

Wat That

    

December 20-21: Luang Prabang (LAOS)

December 20 (Saturday)

What a wonderful place this is. Declared a Unesco World Heritage site in the 1990s, this town is a gem. History, culture, markets! And we'll be here for three nights, so there is even time to unpack a bit.

The day started at 5:00, as we were going to offer alms to the Buddhist monks. Some are just children! We gave them  sticky rice, a staple in the diet here. Only about 50 or so today as many were home with their families. Before returning to the hotel for breakfast, we visited the morning market.

Highlights of the day:

- Wat (Buddist temple, called Vat in Laos) That;

- Traditional Arts and Culture Centre;

- climb 328 stairs to Pou Xi Stupa;

- Kuang Xi Falls (an hour's drive each way);

- Royal Ballet Theatre (a traditional dance, presenting a Laotian fable);

- supper at Coconut Gardens.

A very full day!

December 21 (Sunday): Last full day in Luang Prabang

A free day. So we got to sleep in for the first time (the days have been packed). A few of us visited the National Museum in the morning. Built in 1904 it was the Royal Palace until some time in the 1970s when the last king abdicated. Then walked round the perimeter of the town, which is located between two rivers, the Mekong and the Khan. Stopped for a drink and lunch/sweet at a restaurant overlooking the river Khan.

Had a last visit to the night market and  then on to our last supper in Luang Prabang, at the Lao Lao Gardens. Every meal we've had has been great. I felt like I could have been in Mexico! Right down to the music.

A few pictures from the day:

Street in Luang Prabang

Footbridge over the river Khan

Our hotel in LuangPrabang (Legend)

December 18-19: Along the Mekong

December 18 and 19th

Left Thailand early in the morning and enterd Laos. Thanks to Nok our guide the process was effortless. We were moved about in two minivans which were very comfortable.

Then spent two days on a slow boat taking us along the Mekong River to Luang Prabang. About eight hours each day on the boat. The boats are the same ones that have been used for years to transport goods along the river. Seats had been added to carry passengers. Not fancy but quite authentic. The first day was overcast and cool (about 15 degrees). We felt this all the more as the boats are open on the sides. Lunch was served on the boat both days; a fine feast each day.

The hills on either side of the river are dotted with villages where people live seemingly as they have for many years, except they now have electricity and TV! The education of children seems to be a priority and all children go to school and are sent away for their senior years

The night of the 18th we stopped at a small town along the river (Pak Beng) and spent the night at a modest but very adequate little hotel. Supper at a local restaurant was very good.

The second day, the 19th, the  clouds disappeared and were replaced by blue sky. After lunch we visited Pak Ou caves, which were filled with hundreds of buddhas.

We arrived in Luang Prabang mid-day on the 19th, which left time for a wander before heading for the night market, and supper at the Tamarind.

 Our boat, the green one

 Inside the boat

 Village along the Mekong

Pak Beng market

Hotel at Pak Beng

Inside Pak Ou cave