Today I headed off on my own, by bus. My first opportunity to see how well that would work. And work it did. Three different buses to get me from Whangarei to Whitianga, in the Coromandel Peninsula. It took most of the day but I was in no hurry. Other than the fact that in NZ they drive on the other side of the road, the roads are also narrower than ours, and exceedingly windy (it should be spelled winedy!), so I am just as happy not to be behind the wheel. Others would be grateful too! Besides, I get to look around, and the views are virtually all spectacular, whether of the water (one is never that far from it in NZ) or the rolling landscape.
Also, the bus system here is excellent, and the drivers all very helpful. And although the roads are in good condition, road signs can be hard to find when you most need them. So I am happy to trust myself to someone who knows where they are going.
I arrived in Whitianga about 5:30. The bus driver dropped me off near my accommodation. How about that! It's another place I rented through airbnb.com. And it's ideal, a detached unit at the back of the owners' property. Everything I need, and more.
Whitianga is totally flat and lacks the charm of Russell. But there are many things to see in the area, and I have just two days to do that. And for those who like history, a Polynesian explorer, Kupe, landed here in 950 A.D., and Captain Cook in 1769.
January 25
Like many places, you need a bit of time in Whitianga to really appreciate it. The harbour and beach are very nice (thus all the tourists) and the view of the cliffs across from the harbour just wonderful. Today I took the ferry to Ferry Landing (what else could it be called?) and did the hike up to the Lookout on Shakespeare Cliff. What breathtaking views. But I've said that before! Then down to Cooks Beach. I walked most of the beach before heading for what on the map said "shops", hoping to find a restaurant. There is not much more than a general store in little Cooks Beach, and a bunch of rental agencies, and properties. This is the time of year when New Zealanders are on vacation, so the place was full. I did find what looked like an evening-type restaurant called Go Vino, which I assumed would not have much to eat earlier in the day. Wrong! I had one of the best brunch dishes I've ever tasted. Even took a picture! And did I mention that tipping is not expected in New Zealand. Not that it would not be appreciated.
The little ferry
View of Whitianga from across the harbour
View from Shakespeare Cliff
My brunch at Go Vino
(no more food shots, I promise)
In the summer a shuttle runs between the towns in this part of the Coromandel Peninsula, so I took it to the next little community, Hahei. It is much smaller than Whitianga, but has lots of charm, and a beach and cliffs that would take your breath away. I did more walking but did not get a chance to get to Cathedral Cove, a sight I read was not to be missed. But I had to miss it, to move on (by shuttle) to Hot Water Beach, another recommended attraction. In a section of that beach there are hot springs under the sand so if you arrive around low tide (I did) you can dig a hole in the sand and have your own personal spa. Well, you and all the others crowded into that area. It was, after all, the Sunday of a long weekend. I did feel the heat of the water, and it was almost scorching. So wierd!
Just a few people at Hot Water Beach
January 26
Today I made it to Cathedral Cove. I took the ferry, then the summer shuttle (this was its last day), and did the hour hike from Hahei Beach to the Cove. It is quite remarkable. (I've run out of superlatives.) It's named for the gigantic (and that it is) arch that passes through an enormous white rock, joining two coves. And just offshore is a huge rock that has been named 'Te Hoho' which has taken on a very strange shape, after years of erosion by wind and water. I spent an hour or so at the beach on the Cove, pinching myself every now and again to make sure this was not a dream. The beaches here are very clean, I like to think because people clean up after themselves. Either that or a team of Hobbits does it. The water was very rough when I was there so no tourist boats were landing. Lucky me! After that, food, at a cafe in Hahei.
At Cathedral Cove
On the drive there and back, and the walk through the town I was again struck by the wonderful things growing here. I mentioned that agapanthus are to be found everywhere, and they are georgeous! Coming to an end of their blooming period, as are the hydrangeas. Cocosmia also seems to grow wild here. And there are many, very large, oleander as well. The norfolk pine here are massive, and so perfectly proportioned; good thing they don't have to be taken inside in the winter!
A final word for the day, about coffee. It's become an industry here too. Coffee places are ubiquitous. Interestingly, they have different names for their coffee types. There is cappuccino, and latte, but also what they call flat white (less frothy and milky than cappuccino), short black (shot of expresso) and long black. Regular perked coffee is not on the menu at all. I need a course on this! Mostly coffee is about $4.00, probably a bit less than the specialty coffees at home, except you cannot get a plain old ordinary coffee, which at home is cheaper than the fancy coffees. One thing I love about cafes here is that for the most part wireless is not available so people talk to one another. What a concept.
Tomorrow I move on, by bus, to Mount Maunganui.
