View from "my" deck
I am blown away by Napier. It is on the east coast of the north island, and rather off the beaten path. My host tells me it is not as big an attraction for international tourists, and I‘m their first from Nova Scotia. I may be the first for most of my hosts. Napier’s draw is the art deco architecture here. Much of the downtown was destroyed by an earthquake in 1931, and rebuilt (mostly within 2 years) in the art deco style. So not only does it have a very different look than most other places in NZ, it also has a uniformity that I find very appealing. The earthquake provided the opportunity to plan the city centre that normally never happens. That includes the waterfront area, which is very attractive. The Bluff Hills area, where I am staying, is north of the city centre and was not affected by the earthquake. It is filled with big old trees and homes that give it a very special feel. Excellent exercise, as the hills are quite steep.
One of the Art Deco buildings
Downtown area
Bus shelter (does this not say it all!)
Homes in Bluff Hills area
Other than Auckland, this is the first spot I’ve visited that feels like a place where people live, rather than a tourist destination. It was late afternoon the day I arrived by the time I’d unpacked. And then immediately set off to explore the city centre. Stores close at 5:00 or 5:30 and after that, believe it or not, people with hoses appear and clean the sidewalks! I felt as if I’d been transported back in time about 50 years.
The next day I took a town walking tour in the afternoon, and learned a bit about the characteristics of the art deco period. Consideration had been given to using the mission style instead but that would have been more expensive, and as the quake happened not long after the depression of 1929, one aim was to keep building costs down.
It is now February 16th, my last night in Napier. Even though the weather has not been stellar the last few days (highs just under 20 and overcast), I’ve loved my time here. I’ve:
- visited the botanical gardens;
- been pulled by a tractor along the beach to Cape Kidnappers to see the gannet colony;
- taken Prinsy’s tours to visit 4 wineries (there are 33 in the area) and sample many wines (too bad that is wasted on me!);
- walked up and down the very serious hills of Napier, and the paths beside Hawkes Bay that take you to neighbouring communities (Bayview, Westshore, Ahuriri). These paths extend for many miles;
- visited the museum which did a wonderful job illustrating the impact of the 1931 earthquake;
- took a local bus to the neighbouring communities of Havelock North (charming) and Hastings (actually bigger than Napier but less interesting).
Gannets
View on teh Cape Kidnappers tour
Rotorua museum
View from a nearby peak, on the wine tour
At one of the vineyards
I could see staying here longer but I have a bus to take at 8 tomorrow morning to a community north of Wellington. My time in the north island is nearing an end and I understand the south island will be a completely different experience. My, it just doesn’t end!
My hosts in Napier have been wonderful. A couple about my age originally from the Netherlands. I’ve been served a super breakfast every day, been invited for a fish and chips supper, and been made to feel right at home. This really has been the best possible way to see New Zealand on your own.
Before I close, did I mention that gas here is about $1.70/litre! That would be about $1.55 Canadian. We should consider ourselves lucky!
