The 5:25 bus from Te Anau to Queenstown was totally full, the first time that had happened, and the first time I did not have two seats to myself. There weren't many of us on the bus over 30!! This gave me some idea what to expect in Queenstown. The ride was only two hours, however, and once again my host picked me up, important in this case as I was staying in Arrowtown, about 20 minues by car from Queenstown. Friends Richard and Josephine thought I might like it. And they were right!
Queenstown is the extreme sport capital of New Zealand and Arrowtown is quite the opposite. It grew up in the 1860s, as a result of the gold rush at that time. Many of the buildings from that time remain, or have been recreated. Annie, my airbnb host, lives in a fabulous house built in 1862. She also is terrific, and made me feel like part of the family from the minute I walked in the door.
I had only two days in the area so spent the first (March 3) in Queenstown, and the next in Arrowtown. I was able to get to Queenstown using a local bus. It reminded me in ways of Lake Placid, which is also built beside a lake, and is a sports destination. It's chock-a-block with hotels, eateries and stores, including many outdoor stores. And many young people. I spent the day wandering about the town. No extreme sports for me! Below are a few shots taken in Queenstown.
The highlight of my time there was definitely the Bird Park, where I got to see many endangered birds, but most particularly the kiwi, New Zealand's flightless bird that was almost wiped out by the predators the Europeans introduced in the mid-1800s. It's nocturnal, so is very difficult to see in the wild. This park built enclosures for them in order both to protect them and to reverse their day and night. We could only see them behind glass, and for the kiwis it was night, as their area was dark. What amazing birds. Their feathers are more like hair, they have no wings and a very long curved beak, with nostrils at the end. We were shown a sample (created) of their eggs; they are huge in relation to their body size and unbelieveably heavy.
My day in Arrowtown was perfect, and perhaps the first blue-sky day we'd had in awhile. I meandered along the little main street in the morning. Arrowtown seems to attract an older crowd (me for example!), and the stores reflect that. Many sell jade (referred to as greenstone, discovered and heavily used by the Maori), and woolen products. Where did the summer clothes go? It's more fall-like now in this area.
Shops along Arrowtown's main street
I then spent several hours in the museum in Arrowtown, which I'd heard was good. More than good. Arrowtown has a population of only a few thousand so it's obviousky the large number of tourists that make that possible. The exhibits explained how the town grew up at the time of the gold rush, and had recreations of an entire village: a home, the school, the bakery, the blacksmith, the carrage-maker, and on and on. Very worthwhile!
Museum at Arrowtown, recreation of a bakery
Arrowtown is in a valley and is surrounded by mountains. It's strikingly beautiful. And there are many walking trails, along the stream, and into the hills. After the museum, and lunch at one of the wonderful cafes here in NZ, I did a two-hour tramp, as they are called here, into the hills. Amazing views!!
Views on my hike from Arrowtown
Which reminds me. Did I mention that kiwis call flip-flops jandals? Gotta love that word. No idea where it comes from. I must ask.
My next stop is glacier country. Briefly! Very briefly!!