Friday, 13 March 2015

March 10-13: Christchurch, continued, and Akaroa

My time in Christchurch is now over and I would have to say that although I have had many incredible experiences, I think this one may top them all. I have been back to the city centre several times and am both saddened, and optimistic. As bad as things still look, my airbnb hosts and others I have spoken to have faith that their city will come back. Apparently for more than two years after it happened people were not even allowed to enter the city centre; now they are seeing buildings reopen, and new ones go up.

I spent several hours in Quake City, a part of the Canterbury Museum dedicated to the quake. It's appropriately enough located near the Re:Start Mall. One of the short films there shows the vision for the city centre. They are clearly taking a big picture view, and although it will likely take decades, it should be wonderful. Lots of green space. Where possible they want to save the old historic stone structures (many are churches) but new, more modern developments are also included, and they look very creative.

Another display said that 70% of the buildings in the city centre either have been or will be destroyed. I tried to confirm that online but was surprised that that was not easy to do. Anyway, that figure seems more likely than the 50% mentioned when I took the Rebuild tour. And of the 30% remaining, it appears that most need significant work. Just imagine standing almost anywhere downtown and being surrounded by empty lots, deserted buildings, buildings being rehabilitated, or new building sites. Here are a few more shots.


One of the many empty lots  

New development filling some of
those empty lots

Abandoned, possibly awaiting
 demolition

Perhaps the most difficult thing to see in Quake City was a film showing interviews with survivors. Some had had horrific experiences. One woman was trapped in the tower of the Anglican cathedral and was lucky to come away with only a broken arm. People climbed a ladder to rescue her despite the fact that the walls were trembling. It turns out that woman is a textile artist and she later made a quilt that has become one of the exhibits. This picture does not do it justice but here it is nonetheless.


I did leave Christchurch one day, taking a shuttle to a small seaside town about 90 minutes away, called Akaroa. It was settled by the French about 1840 and is promoted as having a French flavour. It is a very pleasant little town, but the only thing about it that seemed at all French was the name of some of the businesses. But France is a long way from New Zealand so whose to know! Although I did hear a lot of French spoken by tourists when I was there.

Wharf at Akaroa

I also made what have become my regular visits in most places I've visited, to the museum and the botanic gardens. This museum too had recreations from the city's early years, which I love. I'm most interested in the historical sections, and much of that information I've seen in other places. They also had a special exhibit celebrating the hundredth anniversary of the t-shirt. Who knew!!! It seems it all started when it became regulaion underwear for the US Navy, in 1913. Much has happened to it since then!!

The Botanic Gardens are beside the Museum, at the west end of the city centre. There is no evidence it was affected by the earthquake, which hit the eastern end of the city hardest. The gardens occupy a huge section of land, including a lovely forested area of native trees and plants. The destruction seems very far away in the gardens, but in fact it is just across the street.

I did get to have supper one night with a friend of a friend from home. What a nice treat!  They were spared any serious damage to their home although many homes around them did not fare as well.

A rather unexpected surprise was a visit to an exhition of street art in the YMCA. Graffiti at it's best! Here's a picture to prove that (to me anyway).

Street art!!

My airbnb hosts live a good distance from the city centre so unless I wanted to spend several hours each way walking, the best option was the local bus. They are great. Reliable, great route maps, and the buses for a particular route are easily identifiable as they are painted bright and lively colours. The one I used was the yellow bus. We should do that! No searching for the number. You can easily tell it's your bus from a great distance. One day I took the purple bus! Not just because it is my favourite colour but because it was going to Sumner, another beachside community at the eastern end of the city. It too was affected by the quake, but seems to be a weathier area than New Brighten (where I was staying), so perhaps people there were able to advance more quickly with restoration work.


Today (March 13, and Friday too) was a weather-perfect day. I walked on the beach in New Brighton, spent a bit of time in my hosts' hammock, and got a ride from my host to the bus station. He was very excited as this was the first day since the quake that he was able to use one of the more direct routes into the city centre. Road work is everywhere!! Our potholes seem like quite a minor inconvenience in comparison.

I feel very fortunate to have been able to spend time in Christchurch. It is changing everyday. It will never be like this again. I leave feeling as optimistic as so many of the people I spoke to seemed to feel. As one wall painting I saw said: "Smile for Christchurch". Here it is. It includes pictures of people from all over the world, all smiling for Christchurch.